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Fashion & Style Last Updated: Dec 30, 2007


French Women Don't Get Fat
By Dylan Vox
Oct 4, 2007

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This week, a controversial ad campaign featuring an emaciated 23-year-old, 76-pound French actress has created quite a stir in the fashion world. Backed by the Ministry of Health, the campaign created by the clothing brand Nolita is the latest attempt to expose and help prevent the unhealthy image underweight models impose on society.  

The new designer has created the ad campaign, shot by world-renowned photographer Oliviero Toscani, just in time for  spring and summer collections to be unveiled. Toscani’s controversial work helped launch the Benetton brand in the mid '80s when socially conscious ads featuring AIDS victims, death row inmates and racial prejudices began to appear in fashion magazines. 

According to a press release from the ad's sponsor, Flash&Partners Group, the campaign is intended to raise awareness and show the reality of anorexia, an illness the company says, “in most cases, is caused by stereotypes imposed on women by the fashion world.”

Many designers are infuriated over the message the ad sends. Famed Italian designer Giorgio Armani offered harsh criticism in a statement to the press reported by Scotsman.com, saying "anorexia has reasons which are not linked to fashion. Even people who take no notice of fashion get anorexic." 

This is not the first time eating disorders and overly skinny models have been the subject of controversy in the fashion world. Last year, Madrid took a stand against the growing trend of skinny models and turned away 30 percent of the women scheduled for the shows when they did not meet weight requirements.

The requirements were prompted by the death of 22-year-old Uruguayan model Luisel Ramos, who reportedly died of heart failure after stepping off a runway during Fashion Week in Montevideo. At that time, the average runway model was 5'9" and 110 pounds, a good 18 pounds less than what is considered healthy by the Body Mass Index for women. Ramos' death prompted the city of Madrid to order that doctors be present during fashion week to take measurements of the women. 

Even former Calvin Klein model Kate Moss, who redefined the image of a model in the early '90s with her grunge-like appearance and stick thin body, was forced to sit on the sidelines during the shows because she did not meet the Madrid standard. 

Milan, considered the fashion capital of the world, followed suit, imposing a ban on underweight models. The statement sent shockwaves through the industry.

London imposed somewhat similar rules on their fashion week events, but did not use such a rigorous method. They informed designers they should not employ overly skinny models for their shows with many designers agreeing to the requested restrictions.

"Maybe we'll return to the look of girls who are shaped more like women and it can stop the fashion of girls who look like children and we can return to women of glamour," French Designer Franck Sorbier said in a statement to the press, according to AccessHollywood.com. "It's a transition. It's a systemic problem and it seems obvious. There are some people who are born naturally thin and there are some people who are made thin by others. But I think it's too sudden to decide that a woman who is too thin can't do her job."

By the time the controversy got to New York Fashion week, some of the emphasis had been shifted from weight to a general overall health of models. Guidelines were instituted and many advocate groups focused their sights on the age of the models, limiting the employment of girls under 16.

Smoking bans were considered at fashion week to help combat the image that smoking was stylish, and this season on America’s Next Top Model, Tyra Banks implemented her own health conscious statement when she imposed a smoking ban on the participants. 

Many models are known to be smokers, which can help curb appetites and keep down weight, but the irreversible negative effects on the body far outweigh any benefits. To further her cause, Banks had the girls pose in PSA type editorials as women suffering from the effects of smoking, including heart disease, premature aging and cancer.

The health of the models has been a topic of debate for all designers and as designer Donna Karan points out, the modeling agencies bare a large responsibility in taking care of their charges. "It starts at the beginning: the family and the modeling agency," she told the New York Times. "The agency is the mother of the models."

This year more there seems to be more talk of education about the health risks of anorexia and bulimia, but very few changes were made at New York Fashion week. 

Hannah Davis, a 17-year-old model from the Virgin Islands, explained that designers seem to prefer the skinniest models. "Basically, they want a clothes hanger walking down the runway," she said backstage at the Tracy Reese show, according to a report from Reuters. "They want a girl that has no curves." 

The trend does not just exist for women. Many designers have begun to employee overly thin male models to help promote their new lines. The lanky twink look was a huge topic of concern as most of the men looked emaciated and lifeless similar to their female counterparts.

Many argue that Noita is glamorizing anorexia with its new campaign, using the illness to create a buzz about their new line. While the ad is certainly buzzworthy, there is nothing glamorous about the ad it self. The empty eyes of Isabelle Caro starring back from a disturbingly bone thin body will hopefully haunt on lookers to remember that thin is not necessarily beautiful.


© This Week In Texas

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